1. Wat Phra Kaew and the Grand Palace complex
If you’re only in Bangkok for one day, this is the place not to miss. The Grand Palace complex, which includes the ornate Wat Phra Kaew, is a walled enclosure approximately 500 x 300 meters. Although the King no longer resides there, it is still used for formal occasions. You cannot go inside of the palace itself, but the exteriors of the buildings are beautiful, and several of the other buildings are open.
Don’t miss the Abhorn Phimok Prasad Pavilion, the Dusit Maha Prasat, and the Temple Museum. Dress code strictly enforced! As with all other royal and sacred properties, shorts and sleeveless shirts are not allowed.
Wat Phra Kaew, which is the home of the famed Emerald Buddha, encompasses more than 100 buildings. It is a rich architectural gem, with orange and green roofs, stunning facades, and splendid statuary. To get to the complex, take the Chao Phraya river taxi to the Ta Chang pier, and walk east. Cross the intersection at Thanon Maharat, and enter the complex on the southern side of Thanon Na Phra Lan. Open 8:30 am – 11:30 am, and 1 pm – 3:30 pm.
Your entry ticket to the Grand Palace Complex is also good for the remarkable Vimanmek teak mansion, and the Atana Samakorn Throne Hall, located 4 km to the northwest of the Palace, adjacent to the nearby zoo. Vimanmek, a beautiful three-story mansion, is considered the largest golden teak building in the world, with some 80-odd rooms. It houses a magnificent collection of royal artifacts and furniture. Vimanmek is open from 9:30 am – 4 pm. A few hundred meters south of Vimanmek is the Throne Hall, boasting ornate Victorian-Moorish architecture, and housing an exhibition of regional crafts. Open 10 am – 4 pm.
2. Wat Arun
Wat Arun, the 19th century Temple of the Dawn, sits majestically on the western bank of the Chao Phraya River. Its exterior is adorned with porcelain mosaics, filling every conceivable nook, cranny, and wall, brilliantly creative and visually stunning. The statuary is also replete with mosaic adornment.
A fine lookout point up a tall stairway offers great views of river culture.
To get there, take the Chao Phraya ferry to Tha Tien pier, then cross the river via the cross-river ferry. Open 8:30 am – 5:30 pm.
3. Khlong Tours and the Royal Barges Museum
Taking a tour of the khlongs (canals) can be a refreshing way to beat the heat in the afternoon, and you should ensure that you stop at the Royal Barges Museum. Here, you can see the magnificent boats that are used for royal river processions. The largest barge, at over 50 meters long, boasts a crew including 50 rowers, plus umbrella-bearers, and helmsmen. The Museum is located on the north bank of the Bangkok Noi Canal. You can also take a river taxi to the Tha Rot Fai pier, then walk across the khlong to the museum.
Khlong tours can be arranged at many places, including the River City pier, at the Boat Tour Centre. You can also hire your own long-tail boat, but do bargain, as rates can be from 400-1000 baht per hour. A well-known tour goes to the Wat Sai floating market, with tours leaving from the Tha Chan pier, near the Grand Palace, starting at 7 am. Be sure to ask if your tour will include the Royal Barges Museum, and Wat Arun.
4. Erawan Shrine
Located a few steps west of the BTS Chit Lom skytrain station, stands Erawan Shrine, a large Brahmanic shrine built to placate the spirits displaced by the building of the old Erawan Hotel. It’s an active shrine, with constant performances of Thai music and dance, and several stalls selling garlands, incense, and spirit house statuettes. The shrine is located at the southeast corner of Thanon Ploen Chit and Thanon Ratchadamri.
5. Morlam Music at Tawan Daeng
You’ll hear Morlam music, the infectious, upbeat, rocking country music from northeast (Isaan) Thailand, virtually everywhere you go in the city. A fine Morlam music venue in Bangkok called Tawan Daeng (Red Sun), rocks the house down, and westerners are welcomed with smiles and upcountry Isaan hospitality. Here, you’ll see local acts and the occasional headliner, backed up by the exceptional house band. Headliners usually play Friday nights, and if you're lucky, you'll catch stars like Jintara, Siriporn, Ponsak Sorngsaeng, and Daeng Jidtakon. Each singer is accompanied by elaborately costumed stage dancers.
The exceptionally friendly staff doesn’t speak much English, but “beer†is universal in any language, and the food menu is printed in English. This is a unique way to experience the rich culture of Isaan, and hear great music, too. Things really get going around 10 pm, and the club closes at 2 am.
To get there, you can take the BTS skytrain to the Pra Khanong station, then a taxi (approx. 55 baht, on the meter) to the club. You may also print the following map, which you can give to your taxi driver. Tawan Daeng, 484 Pattanakarn Road, Bangkok.
6. Muay Thai Boxing
There are two main venues for Muay Thai in Bangkok, and the pageantry and music are a large part of the show.
6. Chatuchak Weekend Market
The large weekend market at Chatuchak Park is a magnet for virtually every visitor to Bangkok. Here you’ll find antiquities, crafts, books, flip-flops, pots and pans, every manner of sundry, and food stalls and small restaurants. Naturalists at heart will love the stunning selections of orchids and tropical fish. There is also a bank, and ATM machines. A favorite antiquities shop of ours is that of Maem Yong, who specializes in Burmese lacquerware, and who can be found in Section 26, Soi 2, tel: (03) 345-6346.
The place is so large (an estimated 10,000 stalls), that you’ll need a map to navigate, but billboard maps are in front of every entrance, and it’s laid out so like businesses are generally congregated around each other. Chatuchak opens at 7am and closes officially at 6 pm. We advise you to go early, when it’s cooler and less crowded, as an estimated 200,000 people attend each weekend.
To get there, take the BTS skytrain to the Mo Chit station, and exit southwest. Chatuchak is a five minute walk.
7. Suan Lum Night Bazaar and Joe Louis Puppet Theatre
We like Suan Lum because, although extensive (3,700 stalls), it’s less crowded than Chatuchak, and better laid-out. Prices will be slightly higher here, but there are airy restaurants, and the atmosphere is relaxed. Maem Yong (who we mentioned in our Chatuchak notes) also has a shop here offering good Burmese antiquities, at Zone C-55.
While you’re here, plan to attend a traditional Thai puppet show at the Joe Louis Theatre, located within the grounds of the Night Bazaar. The Night Bazaar opens at 6 pm, and closes at midnight.
It’s located at the corner of Wireless Road and Rama IV, and directly across the street (to the west) of the new Lumphini MRT subway station.
8. Segway Tours: a Unique, Unforgettable Bangkok Experience
Floating through the backstreets of old Chinese Bangkok, it’s hard to believe that you’re gliding along on a silent, two-wheeled electrical transportation device, and not on a magic carpet, hovering inches above the ground. We’d read about the Segway transporter, but nothing could have prepared us for the sense of freedom that is part and parcel to the Segway. Seeing a city like Bangkok off the main routes and into the back neighborhoods is something the Segway does better than anything else on wheels. We particularly enjoyed the interaction with the people of backroads Bangkok, who were always delighted at seeing us gliding atop what looks like a push-style manual lawnmower. Bangkok’s full of things to look at, but becoming part of the experience isn’t always that easy to do. It is on the Segway.
Jeff Jarvis, a California landscaper who fell in love with Thailand, opened Thailand Segway Tours, near the southern tip of Sukhumvit Soi 4, in October of 2003. Jeff starts the trip by teaching you how to steer and accelerate the Segway, which takes no longer than 30 seconds. Within two minutes, you’re off for a fascinating 90 minute tour through the beautiful old Tobacco Monopoly complex (soon to be turned into a park), then into a wonderful Chinese neighborhood of traditional wooden houses and shops.
The wonder of this experience is twofold: experiencing a hidden side of Thailand’s largest city, and learning to drive one of the more remarkable means of transport to come along in the past 50 years. We found the 1800 baht fee to be well worth the experience.
Thailand Segway Tours, Woraburi Inn, 128/1 Sukhumvit Soi 4, Bangkok. Tel: (02) 253-6379. Located near BTS Nana skytrain station.
www.thailandsegwaytours.com
Segway Tours GPS Coordinates: N13°44.130’ E100°33.202’
9. Mahachai Prison Corrections Museum
If you’re in for something really different, try this, one of the most extraordinary museums we’ve ever seen. Probably the most horrifying book we’ve read on Thai subjects is convicted drug felon Warren Fellows’ ‘Damage Done,’ the brutal story of his years behind Thai prison bars. Fellows spent time in the now-closed Mahachai prison, where only guard towers and several cells remain. Most of the prison was leveled to form the beautiful Rommani Nart Park.
At the eastern side of the park, you’ll find a small museum, consisting of two yellow buildings on either side of the old prison gate. The northernmost building features impressive architectural elements, furniture, and office machines saved from destruction. Immediately south, the next building houses torture instruments, exhibits depicting the beheading and machine gunning of prisoners, and other tools of the trade.
If you’re fortunate, you’ll run into guide and former prison guard Khun Sommai Ninaram, who will tell you fascinating tales of the history of punishment, death, and Thai prison life as he describes the exhibits. Sommai was friends with the executioner responsible for 55 executions by machine gun, and is enthusiastic about the museum. Do sign the guest book.
To get there: The museum is located on the eastern end of Rommani Nart Park on Thanon Maha Chai, opposite Thanon Luang. It’s a 5 minute walk north of the intersection of Thanon Charoen Krung and Thanon Maha Chai. Closest BTS is National Stadium, and if traffic is good, you’ll get to the museum in 10 minutes. The closest river ferry is Tha Sapan Phut pier, and the museum is a twelve-minute walk, following Chak Phet and Maha Chai roads. Walking around the bridge entrances is dicey, and you’ll have to run fast during breaks in traffic. Open M-F 8:30 am – 4 pm, admission free.
Note: The Mahachai Prison Museum is too tame for you? Then you’re ready for the Museum of the Department of Forensic Medicine, Siriraj Hospital.