extract from http://www.howfen.demon.co.uk/mpsoap/basics.html
<FONT COLOR="119911">This is the method that works best for me. Provided you understand what you are trying to achieve you can devise any method you like. Some people have success using a microwave oven on low power or even in a conventional oven on a very low setting. This is a new craft and there are no rules except the obvious safety rule about being careful with hot liquids and making sure that the base does not get too hot so that it spoils.
First cut the transparent glycerine soap base into small pieces so that it will melt easily.
You need to melt the base. Most people use the double boiler method but as I don't have a proper double boiler I use a Pyrex jug and a saucepan of water. The waterbath stops the soap from heating up unevenly. An inch or two of water goes into the saucepan.
Put the cut-up base in the jug, cover it with clingfilm or the lid of your double boiler, turn the heat on, let the water in the pan heat up until you see the beginnings of tiny bubbles on the base, turn the heat off and leave it alone for a quarter of an hour or so, longer for larger quantities. It helps to put a saucepan lid over it at this stage to conserve the heat.
<FONT COLOR="ff6000">A note on temperatures:</FONT> You are aiming to have the soapbase at between 120 and 140 degrees Fahrenheit (50 - 60 degrees Celsius). Much lower and it will not flow, very much higher and you run the risk of overheating spoiling the texture.
If it hasn't melted when you come back to it, heat the pan again for a few minutes. Stirring very gently is allowed, but not too vigorously or you will get froth.
As the base is melting, measure out any pigments you are going to use. For this soap I wanted some pearlescent green powder and a tiny touch of chromium green oxide. Pour a small quantity of the liquid base over the pigments in a little dish or cup and this time you are allowed to stir vigorously. The base will cool rapidly and you want to incorporate the powdery pigments as well as you can. Pour or spoon the bit of coloured base back into the jug, replace its clingfilm lid and leave it to melt and incorporate as before. You can stir it gently to incorporate.
Just before you are ready to pour add any fragrance you are using and combine it well. The base will be liquid now and you will be able to incorporate the fragrance easily. It is important that you do not have pockets of fragrance or essential oils. Pour into the soap mould and let the soap set up. Depending on the size and shape this will take between half an hour and several hours. It helps to put the soap in the fridge overnight. I cover it with clingfilm once it has cooled so that the moisture will not be drawn out of it. Never put it in the freezer for more than a few minutes as freezing will change its consistency.
<FONT COLOR="ff0000">Tip:</FONT> To unmould, invert the mould straight from the fridge and leave it upside down for half an hour. In theory the slight amount of condensation that forms between the soap and the mould should make the soap drop out. I find that this works better with some moulds than others. If this does not produce a result I run the back of the mould quickly under a very hot tap which usually does the trick. Failing that, brute force, starting with a sharp tap, graduating to banging the mould on the kitchen counter and working up to sharp implements, whilst not recommended, can be effective and rather therapeutic.
It is a very good idea to shrinkwrap the soap or pack it away in an airtight container if you are not going to use it immediately. You can do an effective job of shrinkwrapping using plastic kitchen wrap and a heat gun or even a hairdryer.
Very important: This soap has a high glycerine content and glycerine is a humectant. In humid atmospheres it will attract water and develop beads. If the surrounding atmosphere is dry the soap will dry out and become dull-looking. When in use it keeps its condition beautifully but it does not behave like the commercial soaps that you may be used to. Never leave it to dry out and become harder as you might with a commercial soap but keep it either in use or wrapped up.</FONT>
there are a few more, maybe i'll post them later, k?!