Hi,
Some tips for choosing good quality essential oils.
<FONT COLOR="aa00aa">Essential oils - plant extractions - are used in the perfume and food industries as well as in aromatherapy. Many cheaper essential oils -- used mainly in the fragrance market - are not suitable for human health purposes. Recent research indicates that inhaling synthetic fragrances may cause allergies and asthmatic problems. Therefore it is not advisable to use low-grade essential oils even as perfume.
Some essential oil suppliers claim that the oils meet International Standards like the ISO or the British Pharmacopoeia and are therefore the best, 100% pure essential oils. This is incorrect as these organizations stipulate a range of designated specifications; oils from different harvests and years have to be blended to meet these specifications. Some are put through further rectification to improve the odour.
Some guidelines for buying good quality essential oils:
Sufficient label information
Good brands should include at least the following information:
Botanical species: We must know the species of the plant used for distillation. For example, the name "lavender oil" is inadequate because there are so many species of lavender. A defined botanical species gives the name of the genus in Latin. This is followed by a qualifying adjective and in some cases the variety and the chemotype. The combination of the genus or generic name and the adjective defines the botanical species. This is the minimum requirement in identifying the correct oil to use.
Examples of different types of lavender are:
Lavendula angustifolia or true lavender is the most common lavender essential oil used in aromatherapy. It has a balancing effect, sedative in small quantities, and it is useful for insomnia, stress, headache, burns, among others. The main constituents are linalol and linalyl acetate.
Lavendula Latifolia or spike lavender. Its main chemical constituents are cineol, camphor and linalol. The effect is not as sedating as true lavender and the smell is more camphoraceous.
Recent research at Purdue University found that many of the oils sold in the market as lavender is in fact lavendin, a hybrid developed by crossing true lavender and spike lavender. Lavandin is significantly cheaper than true lavender.
Another example is Eucalyptus. Because there are many species and varieties it is meaningless to speak of " Eucalyptus oil ". For example, there are Eucalyptus globulus, Eucalyptus radiata, and Eucalyptus citriodora, among others. A high percentage of cineol is found in the globulus and radiata types, but not the citridora type. Oils with a higher percentage of cineol tend to be better expectorants.
It is not surprising that many fail to get what they expect from an essential oil. One of the factors is the lack of technical information. The next time you want to buy an essential oil of lavender for relaxing, make sure you get Lavendula angustifolia.
Country of origin is very useful to know for the plant being distilled or expressed. For example Clary sage from Russia has a different chemical composition from the species from Israel. The Russian type has a harsher odour than the one from France. And the best quality sandalwood oil is from East India and not West India.
Producing organ. It is also very useful to know which part of the plant was used in extraction. For example, the best therapeutic effect comes from the berries of Juniper, not the leaves. Therefore aromatherapy quality oil should be labelled Juniper berry, not just Juniper.
Safety information. The Aromatherapy Trade Council of the UK states that safety information should be included in the packaging. These include: For external use only, Do not use undiluted on the skin, Avoid sensitive areas like the eyes, and Keep away from children.
I believe that responsible suppliers should include the above information, but many oils are sold in the market without it. This is because few suppliers are fully qualified in aromatherapy and do not know the best sources. The tendency is to select essential oil on the basis of cost rather than purity, known botanical source, origins, and safety.
Proper storage
Essential oils are very sensitive to light and heat. Light and heat speed up the oxidation process. Essential oils should be kept in amber or dark brown glass bottles.
Plastic bottles are not suitable for storing pure essential oils, so oil sold this way may just be fragrance grade oil. Recent research shows that cobalt blue bottles are not suitable for storing essential oils, as oils tend to react with the colouring substance in the glass.
Another important factor is that essential oils should be kept in a cool and dark place. A cool environment is equivalent to around 20ºC (68ºF).
Supplier's background
Is the supplier a perfume manufacturer or cosmetics supplier? Is their consultant a fully qualified aromatherapist? Do they mainly cater to aromatherapy users, or are they mainly suppliers to the beauty or perfume industry?
Many suppliers or retailers trade in essential oil as only a side business. Many jumped into the 'aroma' trend. I found all kinds of shops selling essential oils, including florists and gift shops. Now please do not get me wrong. I am not saying that only aromatherapists sell 'real' oils. However as a consumer, you have to know that essential oils are considered complementary medicines. They are used for all kinds of common ailments. Are you going to trust a supplier selling flowers and artificial scents as well as essential oils? Or would you choose someone dedicated to aromatherapy products alone? Would you rather buy from a trusted and fully qualified aromatherapist or from an ordinary sales person? You have to answer these questions and judge for yourself.
Qualified aromatherapy consultants
Few shops provide consultation services by a qualified aromatherapist. Sales staff, who may have only gone through two or three days of training, may often give wrong or incomplete instructions.
Technical and service support should be given so as to enjoy the full spectrum of aromatherapy. Once a customer asked me how exactly she should use the oil of rosemary for hair care. She was very confused as one sales person told her to use it neat on the scalp while another recommended inhalation. These are the result of either poor training or no training at all.
Reputable suppliers and brands
Some brands and suppliers are members of trade bodies set up to enforce responsible marketing. They insist that members include safety information and the quality rating of the oils they manufacture or sell. Examples are the Aromatherapy Trade Council (UK), the British Essential oil Association, and the Natural Oils Research Association (UK). Organic oils may be certified under a body called Ecocert.
Put a drop of essential oil on a piece of paper. Does it leave a greasy spot after evaporation? Rub a few drops between your fingers. Does it feel greasy?
Essential oils are non-oily and volatile substances extracted from the plants. They should not leave greasy spots on paper. If a drop of an oil that should have a low evaporation rate, like sandalwood, disappears very fast, be aware of adulteration. Another way suppliers produce cheap oils is by adding tiny amounts of vegetable oil, but they may still label them as pure essential oils.
Some essential oils like Sandalwood has high viscosity, i.e., 'thick'. However, I have encountered Sandalwood oil that had been very heavily diluted.
Oil smell and colour
Can you tell if the smell of the essential oil is abnormal? How about the colour of the oil?
Judging these qualities requires a trained nose. Most experienced aromatherapists can tell the difference. I personally feel very sick from the smell whenever I walk into a shop selling synthetic fragrances.
Colour, too, can be an indication of quality. German camomile should be blue and Patchouli reddish brown, for instance
Compare the prices
Prices of the same type and quantity of oil should not vary much. If the oil is of a very exceptionally high price, ask for the reasons. Sometimes it may be that the oil is certified organic or it may be the quantity (usually in ml) of the oil in the bottle. On the other hand, if the oil is very cheap, that might be a concern. They may be good oils on promotion or they may simply be low quality oils. Oils like German camomile are comparatively expensive but when diluted in 99% base oil it can be very cheap. Please look at the label information carefully. And of course, remember that perfume grade oils are always cheaper.
As far as possible, only buy undiluted essential oils.
Some companies dilute their oils without any indication. Some of the oils are sold diluted to make them affordable. Technically speaking, any essential oils that are pre-blended or mixed with other ingredients like alcohol and solvents, for instance, lose their potency. Unless you are using them just for fragrance, you should always try to buy undiluted essential oils. Pure essential oils are more economical in the long run as you can use them for various common ailments for yourself and your loved ones. Diluted essential oils are also not suitable in compresses, for inhalation, and other health purposes. That does not mean you should not buy pre-blended products for muscle fatigue, baby massage, or slimming. But you should be aware of this point so as to gain maximum benefit from aromatherapy.
Beside the above, the best advice one can give, as far as buying pure essential oils is concerned, is to buy from a company that specializes in aromatherapy and essential oils. As far as possible, consult a qualified aromatherapist for help with purchase decisions as well as for education. A qualified aromatherapist usually has at least a diploma in aromatherapy from a healthcare college (beauty colleges do not teach clinical aromatherapy) and a full membership in a recognized association.
Sebastian Liew, BBA, MIFA, NORA (UK) is a UK-qualified aromatherapist, lectures in aromatherapy, and a full member of the International Federation of Aromatherapists. As an active member of Natural Oils Research Association (UK) , he is dedicated to education and the testing, quality, and analysis of essential oils. Sebastian Liew is the first Asian aromatherapist to receive advanced training in essential oils from Purdue University, USA. A strong believer in the synergy of science and nature, Sebastian Liew co-founded Aromatic Science, the first Singaporean specialist aromatherapy firm.</FONT>
not much to choose from... 
cynthia
