France/Provence - Anyone been there?

blueroti

New Member
Hi

has anyone been to provence? am going for there for my 1st wedding anniversary in May so would like to get some advice - where to go, how to go and any other info.
 


We are going to Provence for honeymoon in end May too! Joined the 9 day paris and provence tour under Trafalgar. Check it out.
 
hi kapricoz

thanks, but I've already bought our air tix so will be planning the whole trip ourselves. I've tried trafalgar's europe tour before - it's not too bad but being a tour pkg, there's not much flexibility. so i prefer to have a free n easy holiday. but heard that provence is nice, so can't wait! anyway, my friends who've been there said aix-en-provence is a must go! ok, have a wonderful and romantic honeymoon!
 
Four of us did a DIY tour to France in May 2005. I planned the entire trip. It cost us slightly under SGD 3k per person for a 19 day trip (inclusive of everything: airfare, transport, etc.). We rented a car (Audi 1.9 Diesel Manual), stayed at a motel chain (Formule 1, ETAP), and ate decent food. Our itinerary is at:

http://www.comp.nus.edu.sg/~rtan/Europe/

Our final itinerary was slightly different from the one above, but you will find many useful links there. If you need any more information, you can post your queries here.
 
Hi Raymond

Sorry for the late reply, just saw your msg.

Thanks very much for the itinerary.

Just a couple of quick questions:

1) You guys drove in provence right - did you have to buy a detailed road map?
2) are the roads easy to navigate?
3) are there sufficient road signs? read from some forum that it can be easy to get lost in provence.
4) did you drive to rousillon or gordes? heard they're really beautiful.

thanks!
 
Hi blueroti,

I'm glad that you are opting for a DIY trip. Those tour packages are good in that you don't have to do any planning at all; but I hate being stuck with fellow (ugly?) Singaporeans on a tour bus for 2 weeks without any privacy and flexibility. What's the point of going there to eat Chinese food? Duh... if we want to travel, we must immerse ourselves in the culture; try to speak as many French phrases as possible, be more vocal with the locals, speak clearly, smile occasionally (French people don't smile a lot). Tour packages are always more expensive as well. You have to wake at unearthly hours; you see an attraction for 2 hours (even though you may only want to see it for 15 minutes, or you love it and want to stay the whole day). Plus, Western Europe's infrastructure is great anyway, and it is not dangerous. You get away from the tourist crowds and explore the REAL France, get to eat genuine French food that the tour buses will never bring you to.

Ok, enough of my rant. Back to your questions.

(1) Yes we drove in Provence. We bought the IGN (Institut Geographique National) Map from Paris (See point 7 of Useful web sites). I also saw it at Kinokunyia at a slightly higher price even after conversion, but it might be more convenient to buy it here. The one we bought is only for France, scale of 1:250000, and can be viewed at:

http://www.ign.fr/rubrique.asp?rbr_id=1116&lng_id=EN

It served us well everywhere we went in France. If you need more detailed city maps, you should at least print out the ones that are available from say, www.mapblast.com.

It's essential that at least one of you is a good navigator. I have much experience navigating in Europe, so I am familiar with the roads there. As long as one of you has a decent sense of direction and is comfortable with maps, you will have no problems. We did not find driving in Provence any more difficult than say, driving in Alsace or the French Alps.

(2) See (1).

(3) No problem for us.

(4) No. We went only to Avignon (stayed for 2 or 3 nights), Nimes, and one other place south-east of Avignon where there was a morning market.

It's a beautiful place, and accommodation is cheap too. If you're on a budget, try the ETAP hotels (triple rooms, attached bathroom). If you can spend more, try IBIS hotels (double rooms, more classy, attached bathroom). All can be booked from www.accorhotels.com, and you can cancel in advance without any charge.

You can PM me, or post here, if you need more info. I even have pictures of the rooms, somewhere.
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hi!

Just found out from a friend today that can get decorative plates mainly from provence. Anyone knows where? Also, bought any there before?
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Thanks!
 
Oh there was one thing in France you need to take note while driving around. We hardly have any circuses (roundabouts) in Singapore; the most famous remaining one is Newton Circus. Roundabouts abound in France, especially Provence. My co-driver drove from Nimes to Saint-Remy-de-Provence; about 30-40km drive. But she encountered so many roundabouts that she said "If I see another roundabout, I'll go crazy". She did. It was quite funny. She must have gone through about 20 roundabouts in that journey.
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Since we are not used to roundabouts, it takes a while to get used to them. Give way to traffic in the circus; while inside, drive confidently. Signal, signal, signal! And oh... going round and round a circus, and not knowing which exit to take, is not a recipe for a pleasant honeymoon.
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Regarding decorative plates, sorry we were not looking specifically for them so I have no idea. But I'm sure you can find it quite easily. They shouldn't be too expensive since they are local products. Each town / village should have at least a shop or two, but that's just my conjecture.

What you can get is very nice truffle oil, olive truffle oil, and many other nice local produces. Oh and nice scented soaps and fragrances too! If you go in May, it is cherry season. 3 Euros for a whole punnet of them. Good and cheap!

The seafood is a must-have; we had the best scallop dish ever. The fish-soup (soup de poisson) is to die for. In Avignon, there is this very touristy looking restaurant on the main street. It actually turned out to be very good and not that expensive. We had a nice platter of fruit de mers (seafood platter); very fresh and cold since it is put on ice; but the seafood has been boiled. Lovely.
 
Hi Raymond

thanks very much for all that advice! it sure is helpful! i really can't wait to go to provence!
the food sounds so yummy!!!

and oh, where did u get the IGN map from in paris? i'm spending 3 days there so perhaps better to get it there if it's heavy.

but the roundabouts sure sound like a real nitemare! = O P

btw, where in yor opinion is the most beautiful place and a must visit? is st remy worth a visit?
how much is car rental per day?

and if it's not too much trouble, can i take a look at the photos of your hotel? how much is it? if i'm not wrong, the IBIS hotels are not near town in general.
 
Hi blueroti,

You will certainly not regret going to Provence. Oh yes, the weather is absolutely terrific. They have over 300 sunshine days a year.
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And it's nice and mild, perfect for al fresco dining. I call Singapore outside dining al sweato.
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For details of the IGN office and its location in Paris (it is actually just off Avenue de Champ Elysees), go to the link below, and do a text search for "Espace IGN":

http://www.comp.nus.edu.sg/~rtan/Europe/

The roundabouts are not so bad; after a while, you get used to it and start zooming through them like the French drivers. After one day or so, we felt like a local already.
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Hmm... most beautiful place? Well if you like history, visit Avignon, Nimes, and there's one super touristy place called Les Baux de Provence. Check out websites or your favourite travellers book for details. If you prefer spectacular views of rocky coastlines, try further east (e.g. Saint. Tropez). I'd generally avoid Marseilles unless you are the city type; certain areas of Marseilles are best avoided due to petty theft and crime problems, according to my lonely planet guide.

Photos, I need to dig it up. If I have time, I will post it.

The locations of IBIS hotels are generally good, and they are comfortable, if a tad too predictable. ETAP hotels are one step lower, but adequate. Even in Avignon, our ETAP hotel was directly facing the old city walls of Avignon; to walk to the palace of the popes takes us only ten minutes. I can provide more details on the exact ETAP hotel we stayed in Avignon if you require.

Our car rental costs us EUR620.82 for 14 days. It could have been EUR515 or so, but we were kiasu and took some additional theft-protection insurance; which actually isn't really needed unless you're driving to a dangerous place. Our car was an Audi TDI 1.9, our friends in Colmar were so impressed. It was a diesel car which helped to keep costs down. We hired it from Europcar, www.europcar.com, but I checked out again (for our honeymoon in July) and it seems that Hertz (www.hertz.com) may be cheaper this time round. Europcar seems to have increased their prices; either that, or we got a really good deal last time round because they gave us some discount when booking the ETAP hotels together with Europcar. I even have discount coupons for Hertz (it is just a number code) and you can get 10% off Hertz rates by signing up for a free membership at their website.

Lots of work needs to be done, but it's well worth it to get the best rates.

Oh yeah; regarding car rental, picking it up from the airport usually results in obscene additional charges. For example, picking it up from Zurich airport costs 150 Swiss Francs more than picking it up from within Zurich city. That's crazy. Even taking a cab doesn't cost us 150 Swiss Francs. So we will take a train to the city, take a short cab ride (so that we don't have to lug all the luggage), and that will cost us max 30 Swiss Francs in total; saving us 120 Swiss Francs. Expect similar price inflations at all airports, so you might wish to do the same if you are say, picking up your car from Paris.
 
Hi Raymond

THANKS SO MUCH for the advice!!! i'll definitely chk out the hertz and europcar websites. i've been reading up lonely planet and surfing the tripadvisor website to get some idea of what to expect.

the deal u guys got for your car rental sounds really cheap!
we rented a car in santorini and it was pretty expensive! so i imagine it'll be more expensive in france!

right now, what we've in mind is to take the train from paris-avignon-aix en provence-nice.
then rent a car to drive to gordes and rousillon and le baux (my hubby said he read from somewhere it's supposed to be very romantic!).
as it's juz my hubby who'll be doing the driving, think it'll be too taxing to have him drive from avignon to aix and nice!

and it's ok raymond, u don't have to dig out your pictures of the hotel, i'll just chk out the websites. thanks much anyway!

will let u know if i need more advice! thanks!!!

n u've a great honeymoon!!! = o )
 
Hi Blueroti,

Car rental is nowadays quite competitive, due to the Internet. It should still be quite competitive; preliminary research for renting a car from Hertz Zurich for 14 days (Ford Focus or similar) is 702.45 swiss francs (about SGD62 per day; that's cheap. Singapore car rental is about SGD90+ a day?).

Taking a train from Paris is a good idea. Let your husband do the driving; Nice may be far, but there is a good toll highway there from Avignon so it is not so tiring. It's worth going to Nice if you have the time!

Have a great honeymoon too and have lots of fun planning your very own getaway.
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Hi schnauzie,

Are you talking about Paris, or outside of Paris?

Within Paris, metros and trains can bring you everywhere.

Outside of Paris, most of the places, yes, but not all. The disadvantage of not driving is that you must find hotels that are near train stations; which may not be the cheapest; you do not want to be dragging your luggage everywhere, and taxis are out of the question (too expensive). Also, travelling by train isn't going to be that much cheaper than renting a car. So if one of you can drive, it makes things a lot more convenient. I also think that the hassle in travelling by train (checking train schedules, buying train tickets, crowded trains) or renting your own car is about the same in the end.

Do what's best for both of you.
 
Oh I forgot one thing to mention about Formule 1 or ETAP hotels (the two lower class ones). Some people think that smoking in bed is cool. The bed covers are made of wool, and wool absorbs smoke like a sponge soaks up water. So it's not nice to be smelling smoke while you are about to fall asleep. You could try asking for a change of bedsheets; but it might require some sign language.
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There is no such problem with IBIS hotels, or anything higher class, of course. Even if it occurs, you can easily ask them to change the bedsheets without any hassle.
 
Hi blueroti,

I'm not talking about you smoking in bed. I'm talking about the previous occupants. The smell lingers in the woollen bedsheets for days.
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Hi,

I am planning a trip to France....Loire Valley and parts of Provence in early oct. I will take a train from CDG airport to Tours in Loire Valley and rent a car to explore the chateux etc. On the 3rd or 4th day, plan to take train to Avignon and rent a car.

You think this is doable? If my husband is the only one driving, I don't think its a good idea to drive from Loire all the way to Avignon right?

Do I have to rent a car in advance on the web or I can just rent when I reach there. The car rental agencies speaks English? Is it difficult to find petrol station in these area?

Thanks.
 
Dear Peng,

Ah this is right up my alley.
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I suggest you rent a car for one continuous period, instead of two shorter periods. It will be cheaper that way. You can easily go to any car rental company's website to check out the "live" prices.

If the distance from Tours to Avignon seems long, simply stay overnight at a cheap hotel along the way. You don't need a hotel with a very good location (e.g. centre of a town); just one in the outskirts of the town will do, it will be cheaper. Also it does not need to be a touristy place; the real France is waiting to be discovered.

To give you an idea of the sort of prices to expect for car rental, we rented a car for 11 days last month in France from Europcar. For a compact car, it cost us EUR 350 in total (excluding diesel). It was a diesel car so we could save money on the gas. The boot was just large enough to store our two large suitcases.
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If you can, instead of blazing along the toll highways all the way, do try to take some scenic country roads during part of your journey. It would make your trip more memorable.
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As usual, I always recommend www.accorhotels.com (IBIS), and midas will recommend www.venere.com
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Best that you rent a car at least two weeks in advance. Check out the usual suspects, but also www.europcar.com

Most of them speak English, but it always helps if you know some basic French phrases.

Petrol stations are aplenty; the problem is finding the cheapest petrol station.
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You *must* pick up truffle oil when around Provence area; the more intense or concentrated the truffle, the better. That area is famous for its black truffles; if you can get white Alba truffle oil (source is from Italy), it's also very good. Wonderful stuff.
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Google if you are interested.

The food in Provence is absolutely fantastic. Brings back so many nice memories.
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Let us know if you need more advice. It would be a lovely trip.
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Hi Raymond,

Thanks for your advice. I read somewhere from tripadvisor forum saying some petrol station don't take in credit card and there is no cashier around to serve you etc so they had a hard time topping up petrol for their car. On sunday most petrol station are closed. Is this true?

I am looking forward to my trip. Early Oct not a rainy season I hope. Thanks.
 
Dear Peng,

It depends where you are. You should be able to find a bigger town nearby where there are manned petrol stations. I've been able to pay for all my top-ups with credit cards at manned cashiers.

Many places are closed on Sundays even in bigger towns, so stock up on Saturday. The whole town is closed (supermarkets included); the only thing you would find open is the bakery on Sunday mornings, so that French people can buy their bread.
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I think these people face problems because they are not used to driving in large countries and only top up when the needle hits empty. Just don't do that and you'll be safe.
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My general policy is: if less than half tank, and if I see a petrol station with cheap prices, I'll top up.

And of course, it is more expensive to top up at petrol stations on toll highways.
 
Hi Raymond,
Is it a good time to go to Provence in mid November to early Dec? I can't decide whether I should just spend my time travelling and exploring France in that time span or should I travel to another neighbouring country. What would you advise?
 
Hi slumber_bee,

Sorry I have not been to Provence during that period. But that area has mild winters and is not too cold; also there will not be many tourists.
 
Hi Raymond,
thanks anyway
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i am quite undecided at the moment as to whether i should spend my time doing a road trip in southern France or to go on a package tour of Europe. I would really hate to be rushed from one attraction to another and also not be allowed to linger at some of these attractions longer if I were to join a tour group. However hubby thinks that joining a tour group means less hassle and a more pleasant honeymoon for the both of us. haha... i am really torn.
 
Hi Slumber,

Forumers know that I will always recommend doing a road trip; if you concentrate on just Provence it is very nice and the driving distances are not too long. You a fairly experienced driver and a decent navigator though; you don't want arguments to spoil the trip.
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For us, I do both jobs and let my wife enjoy the journey or sleep in the car.
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I personally think joining a tour group, while having a lot less hassle, is not a romantic way to spend a honeymoon.
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wow raymond that's so sweet of u to drive AND navigate so as to let your wife relax and enjoy her trip!! hmmm maybe i should just suggest that to hubby. haha
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thanks for your advice anyhow. i think i want a romantic honeymoon. don't think i wanna share my honeymoon with anyone else. it shd just be me and hubby. C'est tout!
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thanks!
 
Hi Slumber,

Not sure if your husband would feel stressed out though; for me it's because I grew up for some years in Holland so Europe is like my second home and I am very familiar with the place. C'est tout, a bien sur.
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I'm sure you'll both have a great trip since you know French.
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Helps lots.
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Hi all, I've drafted out my plan for early Oct...finally. And I need advice
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Day 1: Reach Paris at 7am - take train to Avignon - pick up car & lunch at Avignon (Palais & Port d'avignon) - drive to Pont du Gard - drive to St Remy accomodation

*Q1: If we reach Paris at 7am, how much time should we allocate to pass through custom, collect luggages, find the train station, collect tickets and board the train?
*Q2: Is it cheaper to buy train tickets online?
*Q3: Should we contact and reserve the car before we fly over?

Day 2: St Remy Wednesday Market - Gordes
Day 3: Gordes - Roussillon - Apt - Lourmarin accomodation
Day 4: Lourmarin - Bonnieux - St Cannet
Day 5: Aix
Day 6: Aix - Nice

*Q4: Aix & Nice don't seem safe, we intend to stay in the city center itself so we could walk around without luggages in the car. Any gd location & clean+clean hotel to recommend with safe+cheap parking?

Day 7: Nice - Annecy

*Q5: Should we drive to Annecy?

Day 8: Annecy
Day 9: Chamonix
Day 10: Chamonix
Day 11: Chamonix - take flight to Paris
*Q6: Is it worth 3 days stay since Mt Blanc is closed for visiting
Day 12: Paris
Day 13: Paris
Day 14: Paris

That's all.
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Thanks!!
 
*Q1: If we reach Paris at 7am, how much time should we allocate to pass through custom, collect luggages, find the train station, collect tickets and board the train?

Ans: You need at least 1 1/2 hour to pass through custom and collect luggages plus transfering to train station. I would give myself 2 hour to be safe.Do note that sometimes flight may delay on landing.

*Q2: Is it cheaper to buy train tickets online?

Ans: Yes definitely cheaper to buy train tickets online and earlier.

*Q3: Should we contact and reserve the car before we fly over?

Ans: Yes It is always cheaper to book things in advance.

*Q4: Aix & Nice don't seem safe, we intend to stay in the city center itself so we could walk around without luggages in the car. Any gd location & clean+clean hotel to recommend with safe+cheap parking?

Ans: just practice the usual precaution and you will be fine. I've been to Nice and find it really safe. The promenade, city centre and old town are all within walking distance. I would recommend Hotel Massenet in Nice.

*Q5: Should we drive to Annecy?
Ans: You mean drive from Nice to Annecy? Better not unless you are very familiar with driving in Europe and you have the time. You need to consider the distance and whether only one of you is driving. You can easily take train from Nice to Annecy.

*Q6: Is it worth 3 days stay since Mt Blanc is closed for visiting
Ans: Mont Blanc should still be open. I went in Mid Oct and went up to Mont Blanc. Scary gondola ride and view is fantastic. And yes Chamonix is worth 3 days. Some may find it boring but I like the peace and mountain in Chamonix.

Hope this helps and happy planning.
 
Thanks Peng!

*Q1.1: Any recommended means to book train tix? SCNF website?

*Q3.1: Check out Eurocar & Hertz for car rental?

*Q5.1: Yup Nice to Annecy. How did you travel from Annecy to Chamonix?

*Q6.1: Do you recommend your hotel in Chamonix? How was the weather then?

*Q7: How should we handle our money? Should we change more euros or rely more on credit card? I read that there are atm available, as long as the credit card has cirrus, plus, or maestra but the pin must be 4 digit. Have anyone tried withdrawing cash from atm in provence/chamonix?
 
Hi,

*Q1.1: Any recommended means to book train tix? SCNF website?

Ans: Yes book through SNCF web and just print your ticket online to bring there. Alternatively, you can book train ticket from travel agency.

*Q3.1: Check out Eurocar & Hertz for car rental?

Ans: I personally like Europcar but I am sure other car rental is just fine.

*Q5.1: Yup Nice to Annecy. How did you travel from Annecy to Chamonix?

Ans: I took train from Nice to Annecy and rent a car on the day I leave Annecy to Chamonix.

*Q6.1: Do you recommend your hotel in Chamonix? How was the weather then?

Ans: Yes it is one of our favorite hotel on that France trip. However, it is not those five star hotel. just a normal 3 to 4 star and location is perfect. If you have extra cash, can consider renting hotel room facing the sea.
Tripadvisor web rate it as top five hotel
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g187234-d277279-Reviews-Massenet_Hotel-Nice_French_Riviera_Cote_d_Azur_Provence.html

*Q7: How should we handle our money? Should we change more euros or rely more on credit card? I read that there are atm available, as long as the credit card has cirrus, plus, or maestra but the pin must be 4 digit. Have anyone tried withdrawing cash from atm in provence/chamonix?

Ans:I've not tried withdrawing cash but you should still prepare enough cash cos some small towns may not except credit cards.
 
Hi ete,

You may withdraw Euros if you have the POSBank ATM card that has the Cirrus logo behind. It's best to withdraw directly from your bank account; the only charge is a SGD 5 fee for each withdrawal. So don't withdraw EUR 20 each time.
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Use it as a last resort rather than a first resort; it may not work at all ATM machines. But for me, the few times I tried it, I did not encounter any problems.

Nice to Annecy is far. Did you look at a map and see that the entire route is all mountains? Imagine driving the old windy route to Cameron Highlands for a few hundred km. Ok it's not so bad, but you get the gist.

It is however quite possible if you make an overnight stop at Gap or some other more interesting village or town.
 
I see you are driving all the way from Aix to Nice, and then Nice to Annecy, just to stay at Nice for one night? Hmm... isn't that a lot of effort for just one night? Either skip Nice altogether, or stay for at least two to three nights.
 
Thanks Peng!
*Q1.1: Any recommended means to book train tix? SCNF website?

Ans: Yes book through SNCF web and just print your ticket online to bring there. Alternatively, you can book train ticket from travel agency.
*Q1.2 DO you mean any travel agency in SIngapore?

Hi Raymond - thanks. I did look at the map but it's just a flat map without terrain. I didnt realise it's all mountaineous. Probably we'll change to riding on train.

Aix to Nice will be 2hrs drive if we don't get ourselves lost in directions. hee... we'll stopby some towns after an hr drive for a rest.

noted on Nice stayover... shall re-look into plan. There's this bike tour in Nice - 3hrs of cycling. it's 30 euro per pax. do you think we should save that 30euro per pax?
 
Hi Ete,

Why would you want to book your train tickets from a travel agency in Singapore, whereas you can get them from http://www.voyages-sncf.com cheaper and quicker? You can print out your own tickets once you have bought it! No need to even leave your home or office.

Nowadays with the Internet, travel agencies are almost redundant when it comes to F&E. I never use any of them for all our F&E holidays.

The other thing: 3 hours of cycling for 30 euros? Pay me 20 euros and I'll show you around.
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(Bike rental is less than 10 euros for 3 hours!) Honestly, you can easily do it yourself with just a bit of extra work. Isn't that part of the fun of going F&E?
 
Hi Raymond,

Haha okay you've got a point.

Any advice on the cabin to choose for the train? My colleague mentioned it's not very safe to take train as pple come & go as they wish as there's no officer to check ticket in the train. Handbags, luggages get stolen very easily & fast!

Or is 2nd class cabin gd enough?
 
Hi ete,

I can answer your question. Train is safe. 1st class train have more leg room and less crowded. 2nd class is comfortable enough but more crowded. Sometimes on SNCF web booking, there will be special rate for 1st class and it is cheaper than 2nd class pricing.

There will be officer checking your tickets. Train in France is safe. There are luggage storage corner at different section of train. You can buy a chain to lock it at the railings.

perhaps you can choose 2nd class for short distance and 1st class for long journey. If I remember correctly, Nice to Annecy is about 6 hours and you can select 1st class for this.
 
Hi ete,

Just to add on to what Peng says, we've taken the TGV a couple of times; and nope, we've not lost any luggage nor handbags. Maybe it's because we actually took care of our belongings and not leaving your handbag just lying around carelessly.

We just left our luggage in the common area each time, and we didn't lose anything. I don't think it's any more dangerous than having your luggage "lost" during air travel. Common sense dictates that you shouldn't leave your valuables in your luggage anyway.

Regarding Nice, we took the train once from Nice to Lyon and no, it didn't feel any less safe than on any other public transport we have taken.
 
Thanks Raymond & Peng! Looks like the skeleton of the plan is out! I shall plan the logistics in more details and next, to search for a good camera to capture the lovely france!
 
Hi Blue Ginger,

Yes certainly. All French products. High quality and among the best in the world. That includes bags, champagne, wine, cheese, biscuits, chocolate, food, etc.

Now whether one is able to appreciate them is another thing...
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Hi guys, we're back from Provence! It's a lovely place. But it was blowing mistral wind and got us so chilled! Driving there was an adventure and we were glad we drove.
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