Yes, Prague is BEAUTIFUL! U can cover the entire city on foot or with a little help from its metro. Unfortunately, Prague is no longer an "undiscovered jewel". It joined the EU last year in May and it is an extremely popular tourist destination for Europeans.
One of its draw is also its relatively cheap food in Europe. When I went in Oct03, a Czech friend had this to say:
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Before I propose a few places, I think I will give you a bit of introduction(=warning) to the Czech cuisine, as it is usually not much appreciated
by foreigners. Czech food is very greasy, meat-based, vegetables are basically non-existent. Our favourite is pork (the greasier, the better)
accompanied by grease (we call it sauce). The only good thing about it is that this food literally calls for beer to go with it. To make it even worse, our traditional side dish is "knedliky" - dumplings, a loaf of boiled dough cut into slices. They exist in several forms (bread, potatoe are the basic forms, can be "upgraded" to a full meal when they contain pieces of bacon, ham or when served sweet as balls with fruit filling and cottage cheese, sugar and melted butter on top.) If you are a vegetarian, you will suffer. Only heavy-meat-eater´s stomach can handle Czech food without feeling sick afterwards. When talking about food, I cannot leave aside beer, popularly
called "the liquid bread", which is still the cheapest drink (cheaper than soda
. You will find many many different brands, as each town usually has its own brewery. Apart from local brands, there are some available generally
everywhere. Czechs drink beer by pints (0.5 litre is the default measure, you can get also a "small beer" 0.3 litres). Beware of places serving a
default measure of 0.3 or bottled beer (tourist places, Czechs drink beer from the tap). Beer is available either as 10 degrees, or 12 degrees
(there is a difference in the production process, and also in the alcohol percentage). A good pint will have a rich foam cap and will be nicely cold. Best brands (my personal opinion): Gambrinus and Krusovice. Pilsner is usually too expensive (export beer), Budvar is appreciated by some, but often considered too heavy (headachy). Staropramen is a Prague local, inexpensive and all right to drink.
So here are a few tips:
U Pivrnce - Maislova street - just off the Old Town Square in the direction towards the castle. My personal favourite place where I usually go
straight from the airport for a Czech classic. The place is owned by a famous Czech cartoonist, so the whole restaurant/pub (upstairs, downstairs) is
decorated by his cartoon jokes. You probably will not be able to appreciate them, but they are very funny, usually crude and half of the time related to beer. I think they have an English menu there as well, go basically for anything from the "Ready Meals" section - svickova (pork and dumplings in creamy sauce), moravsky vrabec (roast pork with cabbage and potatoe dumplings) or goulash with dumplings are my personal favourites. The price of beer there should set your standard for the rest of the trip - paying anything above that would probably mean you are getting ripped off (I should think the price per pint is somwhere around 20 Czech crowns now - about 70 eurocents).
Kyvadlo - V Jame street - very much in the centre, off Vodickova (main tram street cutting Wenceslav Square in the middle) - has a special Sunday lunch - svickova again (never had it there, but the food generally is OK there. Not too traditional though.) They serve Bernard (beer), one of the strongest available (14 or even 17 degrees).
Penzion ???(somebody's name) - Navratilova (I think) street: Cannot remember the name now. But if you find V Jame street, this one is basically
opposite on the other side of the main tram street. The place is very small, on the left side, but they also have nice inexpensive Czech food. I like to go here for "halusky" - which is technically speaking a Slovak traditional meal, but also popular. It is kind of dumplinghish meal (dough comes in small pieces) mixed with cabbage and/or bacon. Yummy here.
U Ceskych panu - corner of Vodickova and ???. About one block from "V Jame" towards Wenc. Square. A bit more expensive, but they have an excellent fried "Hermelin" (brie type of cheese) - one of the few vegetarian meals we have (but notice -that it is fried, means at least it has been exposed to plenty of grease
. Very typical Czech. This place is located in an old cellar and
they specialise in old Czech cuisine. The food is a bit higher standard, means dumplings are not the homely kind we all know from our grandmothers, but I like the food there. You can try some old Czech favourites, such as roast duck with red and white cabbage and potatoe dumplings, or a very old dish - pork in plum sauce.
For a little snack, I must mention some typical beer food (designed to accompany beer rather than the other way round).
Bar 69 - do not remember the address, but we are back on Vodickova, on the V Jame side, walk away from the Wenc. Square, at the end where the tram tracks make a 90° turn to the right, continue up the leftmost street, passing Lamborghini (best Italian in town!), and take first to the left. After about 60 m (wild guess), there is a downstairs bar on your left side. Beer is good, although only 12 is available. Have some "nakladany hermelin" (the same brie cheese you had fried is now marinated in oil with varying
add-ins, such as chilli peppers, pepper, onions.... This goody is available in many places, I like the version served in this bar.)
Back to U Pivrnce (the first on the list), as a true pub, they have a choice of beer snacks. Pork knee with mustard and horseradish is great (do not be intimidated by the size, most of it will be pure fat and bones, which are not to be eaten), or "utopenec" - little sausages soaked similarly as the mentioned cheese in vinegar with onion and spices for a few weeks. Very typical beer snack.
If after the first taste of Czech food you find out that even Mac is better that that, you will find one on... Vodickova street.
These are a few of my favourite places, all very centrical, not touristic, which means you should get the real thing at a reasonable price. Completely avoid places like Svejk (the Czech food there is not Czech at all - instead of greasy pork you get very nice diet ham!!! Outrageous!, and usually at completely ridiculous prices.) I think that you should be able to get a meal at around CZK 100 )about 3,5 euros. In Czech pubs, the "REady Meals" could be as low as CZK 60 or 70).
Beware of pickpockets (plenty in the centre and metro - they can smell a tourist at a mile's distance!) - have always all your bags fastened, preferably in sight (no wallets in the outer pocket of your backpack on your back where you cannot watch it all the time, no wallets in the back pocket of your jeans!), and try to call a taxi company rather than take a taxi from the street (major problems as well - have a habit of ripping off tourists, and I do not mean by a few cents. Friends have had experience such as paying
50 euros for a ride of a few hundred meters!) Respectable companies are AAA, Citytaxi (best rates, around 19 CZK per kilometre). Public transport in Prague, however, is (a tiny bit) even better than in Helsinki - you can get everywhere at basically any time of the day, it is very reliable and inexpensive. Definitely applies to the airport taxis - they are ridiculously expensive. For a price of 30 cents, you can take a bus and metro downtown.
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We make it a point to try each and every one of the pubs she mentioned. After several lunches and dinners, our fav is
U Pivrnce, very central, authentic, and excellent (&cheap) food. Don't be misled by the term 'Beer snack', it is really quite substantial as a meal. Must haves are pork knuckle (enuff for 2) pork dumplings and goulash.
Generally, Beer is cheaper than coke everywhere but try a hot creamy choc if you want a change - wonderful!
We stayed at
an old hostel in the city center that used to be a prison Cool! Stay in Prague for at least 4 days...any shorter and you'd regret it. Have fun!